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The dessert element of dining out is the encore after the applause. The superfluity of a standout meal is made more memorable with that last kiss goodnight. Attention to the detail of a good cup of coffee and a striking dessert plate presentation can set a dining experience just over the top. But what are the challenges that come with it?
Dessert can mean a noticeable bump to a check average. It also slows down the dining room and requires talent lacking in today’s murky and shallow pond of skilled labor. For upscale casual, does it make a lasting impression or does it stifle table turns?
The push for healthier options. Menu engineering is in line with trends, as the climax to a meal has pulled a U-turn with shareable and small plates jumping up and down for attention rather than the sugary finish. With a nod to healthier dining preferences, the push for vegetable-rich, small plates make their way around the table; tempura, grilled, sous vide, roasted and pickled are snuffing the flame out from under the crème brûlée.
The bitter cost of something sweet. A bit in the Washingtonian makes the case for dessert being 86’d, decreeing that restaurants don’t want you to order dessert. True? While gorgeous dishes, especially dessert, can stupefy the onlooker, the ingredients can push food cost percentage over the tipping point. Add the skilled labor to pull off the anticipated shock and awe pastry production, and desserts become less sweet. An extra cocktail that takes seconds to build using ingredients that don’t go bad and require the existing skill of a bartender nudges dessert out as the last course for many operators.
For destination locations, dessert sales can mean 8 percent or more of gross sales. For casual grabs, that number can wither to a scant 1 or 2 percent of sales. With shrink — eating the good stuff, dropping a piece or two, spoilage — the cost to get caramelized banana bread pudding to the customer all but dashes any hope of profitability.
Good desserts require quality purchasing. There are plenty of proper suppliers that can service the need. Frozen, pre-sliced or portioned desserts are not endangered breeds. So, that isn’t so much the concern. Really, really good desserts mean, at least, one skilled set of hands that can manage consistent production of appealing products that will generate enough money to cover the labor and justify an extra thirty minutes squatting of prime table real estate. That’s a tenuous predicament.
“I prefer to make them,” says Chef Adrian Cruz of Texas’s Orchard Lounge. “Desserts are profitable. I prefer doing the desserts rather than hiring a pastry chef. It's more of me learning to execute that stage.”
The move away from dessert isn’t reserved for fine dining. Border Cafe is one of many formula, chain operations that have ditched the last course. Rather, the chain’s business model, like a growing number of upscale casual restaurants, calls for omitting dessert in exchange for pushing another table turn.
Take into account storage and production space necessary for getting the butter-poached apple and pear tartine with maple ice cream to the table for a gentle $8 or $9, and it quickly becomes apparent that the juice simply isn’t worth the squeeze. Great gelaterias, cupcakes stands, and craft bakeries also nibble into the audience that may skip a sweet something in your place but opt for a walk to the dessert place up the street. Now the labor is lost, too.
But the charm of dessert can’t be summarily dismissed. Does a quality finish trump the few percentage points it takes to deliver a great tiramisu? Maybe bringing the curtain down on a meal has an inherent cost that, like linens, simply is part of doing business to ensure a standout meal worth a return visit.
So, before the last line is written on tonight’s dinner, the experience may fall a few words short of an epic tale. The dessert haves and have-nots are writing a story that will most certainly tell differing tales. Does the last course have to go away? No. Does it need to be reconsidered? It definitely isn’t an automatic.
By Kerri Adams, Editor-at-Large
The casual-dining chain has announced that they will be celebrating summer by incorporating strawberries into the upcoming season’s menu.
Some of the new berry-tastic, made-to-order menu items include strawberry margaritas and salads featuring the fan-favorite fruit and the “freshest seasonal ingredients.”
“We love summer at California Pizza Kitchen when some of our favorite produce, like sweet strawberries and watermelon, are at their freshest and juiciest,” said Brian Sullivan, SVP of Culinary Innovation at California Pizza Kitchen in a press release.
“Refresh your taste buds with our newest seasonal dishes like the California Fields Salad, with fresh strawberries, juicy watermelon, fresh basil, pistachios, feta and champagne vinaigrette atop crisp field greens. Under 650 calories, the California Fields Salad is deliciously light and refreshing on a warm summer day. Sweeten your meal with the return of our seasonal Strawberry Shortcake, a treat that’s reminiscent of those carefree childhood summer days, or cool down with a hand-shaken Strawberry Lime Margarita or non-alcoholic Fresh Strawberry Mango Cooler, bursting with fresh strawberry flavor.”
CPK isn’t the only brand to jump on the strawberry bandwagon this season, McDonald’s recently announced that their quick-serve stores will now be offering new menu options featuring this red fruit.
Strawberry is consistently a consumer favorite. 94% of households consume this fruit. With the health movement continuing to spread across the country, consumers are gravitating to fresh produce.Read More