Who’s Rewriting London’s Restaurant Rules (And How Are They Doing it?)

London Food

Who’s rewriting the rules of London dining? The Young Turks have certainly helped.

In their late 20s, this group of three British chefs (James Lowe, Ben Greeno, and Isaac McHale — known as the Young Turks collective) brought their collective experience from Copenhagen, Sydney, and New York, to London, to set a new tone for dining out in the city.

The tone? An eclectic mix of elevated food with a rock ‘n roll vibe.

Self-described as young and ambitious, the trio even had a manifesto, which pledged to promote a new approach to British cooking focused on transparency and collaboration.

That was 2010. Fast-forward six years to 2016 and the Turks are in their mid-thirties and have moved on — but have left a lasting impression.

Six years later, the Young Turks, now in their mid-30s, have moved on, but have very much left their mark on today’s London chefs.

“My guys now, I kick their ass if they don’t go eat at the Clove Club [an establishment opened by McHale in 2013] or see what James [Lowe] is doing,” James Knappett told the Wall Street Journal of his staff at Kitchen Table. Knappett also recounted how, at one time, London’s kitchens were so competitive he (and other chefs) weren’t allowed to eat at certain restaurants or even talk to their chefs. Read more